06
Jul 15

Akureyri – Vesturdalur

There was some rain at night but when we were getting up at 6am it was just greyish with no rain any more. We packed up efficiently and moved over to the cooking area to make our breakfast. Then it was about time to go down to the bus station for our bus to Ásbyrgi.

For change this was a small bus, and there were only about six or seven of us on it. Despite the grey weather we had some beautiful scenery on the way, as it is probably the norm in Iceland. The bus made a stop at Goðafoss, a mighty waterfall, and then only in Húsavík, where we had 15 minutes and managed to see it all in ten. Afterwards it was finally Ásbyrgi, where we got half hour before schedule.

Goðafoss

Goðafoss

Leaving Ásbyrgi

Leaving Ásbyrgi

After getting our bags ready for the hike and buying a map in the pretty info centre, we set out on out first multiday hike down the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon. It is part of the Vatnajökull National Park – North, Europe’s largest protected reserve.

Iest and the view

Iest and the view

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

The walk started through some nice arctic vegetation with prolific birdlife, before opening views over the massive canyon. There were some pretty incredible sights as we made our way along, and the weather was getting progressively better too, so we had some sun for most of the afternoon.

Canyon

Canyon


We arrived in Vesturdalur campsite at about 4pm, and made a nice couscous dinner. The campsite was very basic, just a flat spot by a small ranger station with very limited facilities, but very beautiful setting. Mighty tired we went to bed early as we tend to do, also because it was quickly becoming the chilliest evening we’d had so far.

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Our campsite

Vesturdalur campsite


04
Jul 15

Reykjavik – Kerlingarfjöll

We got up before six, and started packing to catch a bus to the bus station, which was supposed to leave at 7:15. The bus driver said we would not be leaving before 7:30 though, which should still be fine for our 8am bus from BSI. We used the little time to buy breakfast at the adjacent hostel, which was a great idea – we did not have enough time to take full advantage of the fresh buffet selection but we tried our best to stuff ourselves and still took some sandwiches and coffee for the road. At the bus station we found our bus immediately, as it was the one with the rough terrain wheels – monster bus!
With us the bus was full of French tourists going to the same place as us, as an organised group. They were super annoying, and we thought it was very inconsiderate of the company to use public bus as their personal transport for their groups. On the couple of stops along the way where people wanted to get in, they had problems accommodating them.

Strokkur

Strokkur

Geysir

Geysir

The bus stopped at the sights of Geysir and Gulfoss – the most famous (and touristy) geyser and waterfall near Reykjavik. We were happy to see them just on our way somewhere else, so we didn’t have to spend much time and still check them out. At Geysir, there was actually a whole field of geysers and spouts, and despite all the people it was pretty nice. Gulfoss was indeed pretty mighty and roaring, and there was a nice viewing point up above it all.

Gullfoss

Gullfoss

Gullfoss

Gullfoss

Afterwards, the bus got on the (only very recently opened) highland route 35 to Kerlingarfjöll. The weather was amazing and sunny and we had beautiful views of the landscape and mountains on the horizon, including Hekla, and glaciers, while around us there was some surreal moon-like terrain with snowfield still aplenty. We were getting terribly excited. The bus was doing great on the dirt road, with occasional river crossings and all.

Kerlingarfjöll Camp

Kerlingarfjöll Camp

Hiking towards Hveradalir

Hiking towards Hveradalir

We arrived in Kerlingarfjöll at about 1pm, and the place was awesome. It was beautifully set in a valley of a glacier river, surrounded by mountains with still a lot of snow. There were a few huts (those apparently need to be booked long time ahead for the short summer season they get), and a great selection of spots to pitch. When we checked-in for our tent, we also got a small map with the local hikes, but were also informed that there is more snow than usual for the time of the year, and some of the trails might not be clear. We didn’t care because we’re awesome, slapped a lot of sunscreen on, and set out through the first snowfield towards the Hveradalir geothermal area located in a glacier river canyon.

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13_Gina_NoShades

The trail was as scenic as it gets and in about 75 minutes we saw a first spot of spouting sulphuric steam. Once we got to it a whole canyon opened beneath us and it was truly epic – yellowy-orange rock with snowfields, spouts of steam and hot water at various place forming colourful patters on the rocks. We followed the trail on the south side of the river for about half hour until we reached a spot where we saw directly down, and realised that the bridge from our side was gone (with some remains still around) and since the river was quite wide and we didn’t know how deep it would be, we decided to backtrack to the spot of the first steam spout and took the trail on the north side of the river instead. We didn’t regret this detour on bit because it took us through a different branch of the canyon still, may be even wilder than the first one. And with unlimited daylight and stable sunny weather, there was no better place to be.

Hveradalir

Hveradalir

Hveradalir - Gina & halo

Hveradalir – Gina & halo

Gina at Hveradalir

Gina at Hveradalir

Hveradalir

Hveradalir

Once we got back to the same spot we were before, just on the other side of the river, we met again the couple we briefly spoke with before, who did manage to get across the river – turns out that despite being wide it was only about mid-thigh deep (and pretty cold of course). We had some last fun at the bubbling sulphurous mud, and then hiked up the canyon on the other side than we came down and took a nice trail down to our campsite again.

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24_Kerlingarfjoll

26_Gina_Kerlingarfjoll

Altogether a nice leisurely 5-hour hike in the sun with some surreal sights. What a way to start our trip! Is it going all downhill from here? Because this will be hard to top.
We took a shower (finally!), made a nice pot of hot ramen noodles, split a beer, and crawled into our sleeping bags at around 8pm already, completely exhausted given our lack of sleep the night before, and also it was getting cold very fast.

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31_Kerlingarfjoll
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34_Kerlingarfjoll

29
Dec 14

Yr Aran

An unscheduled trip to the dentist for Iestyn this morning meant that we couldn’t spend the whole day up in the mountains. We left Caernarfon (with Iestyn’s teeth feeling a bit better) at around 11:30am. Our plan was to tackle Moel Hebog circular walk, but as we didn’t have that much sunlight left, we decided to head up Yr Aran instead, as it’s a lovely walk – fantastic views, and relatively quiet mountain, once you get off the Rhyd-Ddu, Snowdon bound path.

We parked the van in Rhyd-Ddu’s car park, booted up, and headed up towards Yr Aran, along the gentle slope of the Rhyd-Ddu path. There wasn’t much people walking on it this afternoon, which was nice – the snowline started at around the 500m high mark – just as we got into the old quarry.

We stopped briefly stopped by the entrance to the lake by the quarry to strap on our gaiters, and another warm layer, as the wind had started to whistle down from the mountains. Gina lead the way, up following the wall and fence posts past Bwlch-Cwm Llan, around Y Geuallt and straight up the breezy summit of Yr Aran (747m).

Looking over towards Moel Hebog and Beddgelert

Moel Hebog and Beddgelert

A very happy Gina

A very happy Gina

We stopped to enjoy the views, and had our lunch – pretty much exactly the same as yesterdays on the Glyderau – Cheese ‘n pickle sandwiches, Czech Xmas cookies, and a reindeer flask filled with mint tea. It was mighty cold on the summit, so we didn’t hang around too long. Just enough to enjoy the views, and admire Snowdon and Cwm Llan, as the rolling clouds came over.

Gina on the summit of Yr Aran

Gina on the summit of Yr Aran

And with that, we headed down the same Rhyd-Ddu path, back down towards the van. The wee Welsh Highland Railway had just stopped in Rhyd-Ddu by the time we got there, so Gina went ahead and took a few pics as it chuffed away down the valley towards it’s home in Caernarfon. Another awesome day up in the Welsh mountains.


28
Dec 14

Glyderau

After our beautiful, and relaxing Christmas break down in London, we headed to Wales from the 27th of December – to get in some hiking, and, as Wales had recently got it’s fresh dump of super powder snow on the mountains, we were in for a great time.

We woke up, first thing Sunday morning, and headed straight to Llanberis, as we needed some fresh hiking socks for Gina, as she had just bought herself a new pair of beautiful boots: Scarpa Ranger Lady – Gina was over the moon with them. After a swift purchase of her new socks, we jetted up Llanberis Pass, and parked the van in a wee lay-by just after Pen Y Gwryd (the expedition pub), booted up, and headed straight up the Southern flank of Glyder Fach. Once we hit the snow line, we knew we were in for a good day’s hike, as the wasn’t a single cloud in the sky, the snow was super fresh-powder, and the views were stunning.

Gina, Snowdon Horseshoe & her new boots

Gina, Snowdon Horseshoe & her new boots

Snowdon Horseshoe

Snowdon Horseshoe

We powered up the hill, cutting through the epic balls-deep snow before reaching a nice wee plateau to which we stopped and had ourselves a lovely spot of lunch. As we bought up with us from London the beautiful Czech cookies that Gina baked for us, we thought that these would be a wonderful addition to our hiking snacks, and boy we were right: cheese ‘n pickle sandwiches, Czech xmas cookies and wonderful mint tea – perfect hiking foods.

Gina hiking in the snow

Gina hiking in the snow

Snowdon Horseshoe

Snowdon Horseshoe

After a nice lunch, we headed right up towards the summit of Glyder Fach. We hadn’t seen a single soul all morning, and it wasn’t until we reached the top plateau that we found the other hikers traversing from Glyder Fach towards Glyder Fawr. We stopped over at Castell y Gwynt, where the views down the valley, and over towards Y Carneddau were majestical and Wintery. I took a few snaps of the ice covered rock formation over on Castell Y Gwynt, and looking across towards Glyder Fawr.

Gina hiking up Glyder Fach

Gina hiking up Glyder Fach

Amazing views over towards Snowdon

Amazing views over towards Snowdon

Gina on Castell y Gwynt, with Pen yr Ole Wen behind.

Gina on Castell y Gwynt, with Pen yr Ole Wen behind.

Icy Castell y Gwynt & Glyder Fawr

Icy Castell y Gwynt & Glyder Fawr

From here, we traversed across to Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder, and stopped just shy of the summit of Glyder Fawr, as the sun was setting fast. We decided to head down a different route – from y Bwlch, straight down Bwlch Dwyglydion, and over to Llyn Cwmffynon. The sun was setting rather nicely, where we stopped for a breif moment to get some nice pictures.

Gina on Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder

Gina on Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder

Bwlch Dwyglydion - looking down towards Llyn Cwmffynon

Bwlch Dwyglydion – looking down towards Llyn Cwmffynon

Rather fantastic round trip, in glorious weather. Really nice to see Wales on top form!


12
Jul 14

A short Welsh weekend

As Gina has recently moved to London (!!), it’s now going to be a lot easier for us to head to Wales when we feel like it. This is pretty much exactly what we did over the weekend. I took the late ferry from Dublin, and Gina caught the train up from London – and we’d be meeting in Holyhead around midnight. Perfect!

The train ride, and boat trip went without any hitches, and we met bang on time in Holyhead, where dad picked us up and took us home to Groeslon.

We got up super early, and after some hearty breakfast and catch-up with Mum and Dad, we decided to head up to the Welsh mountains – the Carneddau. The weather wasn’t particularly favourable – from down in the Ogwen Valley we couldn’t see the tops of the Carneddau, but we decided to head up anyhow, to stretch our legs, and because we’re cŵl like that.

We started from Llyn Ogwen, and belted up the steep slopes of Pen yr Ole Wen. The fog was thick from around the 600m mark, so just before heading in, we took a few snaps, as I had borrowed a friends Wide-angle lens for the weekend.

Gina & Cwm Idwal

Gina & Cwm Idwal

 

What followed was a really refreshing 5 – 6 hour walk into the thick cloud, from Pen yr Ole Wen (978m), across and up to Carnedd Dafydd (1044m) across the ridge to Carnedd Llewelyn, a wee bit of scrambling before heading up to Pen yr Helgi Ddu, and then descending the road-path that leads from Ffynnon Llugwy down to the car. There was a few people up on the hills, as there was a ‘Vegan 10km’ race on – but me and Gina marched onwards, enjoying being out together in the hills.

Directly afterwards, we headed to one of our favourite eating places (especially after a big hike): Pete’s Eat. We had the usual Veggie Grill, with a massive mug of tea, and hot chocolate for me.

On the drive home on Saturday, I noticed that we might be in for a fantastic sunset, as the clouds were breaking up just above the horizon, so after quickly changing from our wet-hiking clothes, we dashed on down to Dinas Dinlle to catch the epic, fantastic pink sunset, which gave me an opportunity to play with another borrowed lens, a 60mm Macro lens which I’ve fallen in love with, while Gina took epic snaps with my iPhone for Instagram (something we’ve both adopted very well):

60mm Pebble shot

60mm Pebble shot

And that was it for Saturday night! We were both blasted by the day’s hard work, so we had an early night.

Sunday bought with it, much better weather, so after another super early start and hearty breakfast, we decided to go to Gina’s fave place in Wales: Ynys Llanddwyn, and as it was a super nice and sunny day – this was a great idea!

We jetted over in the van, blasting some sweet music from my younger days, to a fairly looking, busy Llanddwyn. Armed with an ice cream (and a chat with the ice cream vendor about my family – Wales is a small place) we made our way towards the island and lighthouse. Thankfully, the tourists were all crowded along the main entrance to the beach, once we past the first 100m walk, the tourists were no where to be seen, which was great.

Wide angled Gina, gallivanting

Wide angled Gina, gallivanting

60mm flowers, sea and mountains

60mm flowers, sea and mountains

We made our way over and across towards the lighthouse, where we sat and chilled, and enjoyed the sun together. I (probably) burned my face because of the sun, but it was nice to be by the fresh sea, relaxing with Gins.

Macro Ynys Llanddwyn

Macro Ynys Llanddwyn

Gins.

Gins.

From Llanddwyn, we decided to head on over to Rhosneigr for a spot of lunch. Our main priority was pancakes (clown ones!), but the wee cafe was closed, so we decided to have some proper seafood – Gina went wild and had some lovely Rhosneigr Mussels, while I had traditional Fish ‘n chips – with mushy peas! It was fantastic.

And that was it, our short weekend had come to and end – we had to head back to Groeslon to pick up our bags, and catch our trains and ferry, back to London and Dublin.


04
Sep 12

Cinque Terre hike

The plan for the day was the amazing coastline hike of Cinque Terre. Here’s what the internets has to say about the area:

Cinque Terre is a string of centuries-old seaside villages on the rugged Italian Riviera coastline. In each of the 5 towns, colorful houses and vineyards cling to steep terraces, harbors are filled with fishing boats and trattorias turn out seafood specialties along with the Liguria region’s famous sauce, pesto. The Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking trail links the villages and offers sweeping sea vistas.

Sweeping sea vistas indeed it was! We grabbed some breakfast from Levanto, and sat on the seafront eating with a cup of coffee, and enjoyed the view as some locals took a nice, early morning swim in the Ligurian Sea.

To get to the starting point of the walk, and the furthest village away from Levanto we had to catch the Cinqu Terre train. The train departs at Levanto, and stops at each village along the way. The last stop, and our first village was; Riomaggiore.

Really pretty village, nicely built into the river valley that runs right into the sea. We had fun taking photos of the amazing views, but unfortunately, the skies were completely overcast. We made a quick dash over to the pretty church and square they had, and grabbed a quick cup of coffee before venturing down to the sea front.

Gina at Cinque Terre

Gina at Riomaggiore – our starting point

Iest, coffee, & tuk-tuk at Riomaggiore

Once at the sea front, we could see all the way back to Levanto, and loads of rocky bays weaving in-and-out into the coastline. We started our walk, heading towards the next village of Manarola. Manarola was quite pretty, as it was located just behind a large rock face as we approached it.

Panorama of Manarola

Mangrola seemed to be very busy, with a couple of small boats coming into the harbour as we were overlooking form above, and even people jumping from the cliffs into the sea below. Tourist numbers were now also starting to creep up so we decided to continue our journey towards Corniglia.

Gina hiking along the trail

Corniglia

Corniglia seemed a lot smaller than the other villages so far, and was a bit less dramatic, as it didn’t seem flow down right into the sea, Gina did however make a new friend, in the form of a beautiful, bushy black cat. Gina played with her for a bit, whilst I chilled out.

Gina and her new friend

we continued on, through some vegetation, trees and tall grass, over the rocks towards Vernazza. Vernazza to me was the prettiest of the villages, as it had it’s own little headland cropping out into the sea, and an old looking watch tower at the top, over looking the bay. The village had some really nice narrow, tall streets, with houses built completely ontop of each other.

Vernazza

Iest, looking pained at Vernazza

We decided to have a bit of a rest here, and waited around for the sunset to take some nice photos. However, here in Vernazza, I managed not only to destroy my camera, but also Gina’s lens that I’d been borrowing for the trip. I was trying to overtake some tourists on the narrow steep stairs, and my sandals slipped, causing my camera to swing out and smash against a metal pole. Devastating. From here onwards, I had to fashion together a hack, with duct tape and gentle balance of the lens in order to take the pictures. (My camera never recovered, and I never was able to fix Gina’s awesome lens. Sorry love.)

Sun setting over Vernazza

With that, we decided to catch the train back from Vernazza to our camp at Levanto, as the sun was setting and we were getting tired – so much sea air!


10
Sep 11

Hinterwaldkopf

Glorious sunshine in the morning, so we decided for a trip with sky-high altitude for spectacular views. We also asked our friend Hendrik, who joined us for the hike for some added fun.

We left Claude in Himmelreich village by the train station, put lots of sunscreen on, and wandered off into the jungly thick greenery of the Black Forest. Soon the trail was pretty steep, and we were happy to be in the shade of the forest, as the sun was doing its job pretty heavily.

Himmelreich greenery

Himelreich forest

Himelreich forest

Finally we emerged from the forest, and found ourselves near the Höfener Hütte with a beautiful view across the valley.

Panorama

What a place for a beer! Well, in reality we got ourselves Apfelsaftschorle, all organic and bio and from apples of the region, sweet and tasty. Also a cheesecake, which was yum!

Hofener Hutte

From the hut it was still a little bit to go to the very top of Hinterwaldkopf. Since it was a sunny Sunday, and we had a late start as always, not to mention the recharging stop at the hut, the top was pretty crowded, complete with a bunch of screaming kids and all that. So we tried to enjoy the views for a little bit but didn’t spend too long, and set out on our way down, on the other side of the hill.

Hinterwaldkopf

Hinterwaldkopf

Before we immersed ourselves into the forest on the other side again, we got a good close look at some endemic fauna and flora in the sun.

Fauna

Flora

By the time we got out of the woods down in Hinterzarten, we were pretty tired from the long and steep downhill. We managed to see some very nice waterfalls and hug some trees for energy, but the most energy we eventually got was from the ice-cream in Hiterzarten. This made us miss the train back to Himmelreich by just a minute (we saw it!) because some people (me) cannot eat their ice-cream as fast as other people (Iestyn and Hendrik for example). But it was ok, because the train goes every half hour.

Wasserfall

Gina hug

Hinterzarten station