31
Aug 12

Bolzano to Lake Garda

After another day in the mountains, we decided to leave Cortina, and make our way deeper into Italy. Our first location was Bolzano – a small, and beautiful city just to the West of Cortina.

Gina in the streets of Bolzano

Gina in the streets of Bolzano

Bolzano Cathedral

Bolzano Cathedral

After walking the streets, and visiting the city’s many market stalls in the rain, we headed into Chiesa dei Francescani (St. Francis Church) – where we got our first glimpse of an Italian cloister – “dating from the fourteenth century, is Gothic with Gothic arches trefoil, and all decorated with an elaborate series of frescoes”.

After another solid pizza, we headed out of Bolzano, South, towards Lake Garda, where we would setup camp for the night, right on the shores of the lake. A massive storm was brewing, so we chilled that night at the campsite bar, before going to bed.

Gina at Lake Garda

Gina at Lake Garda

Lake Garda Panorama

Lake Garda Panorama


29
Aug 12

Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel & Falzarego pass

We woke up at the crack of dawn – had ourselves a nice camping breakfast, and hit the first Via Ferrata of the trip – Via Ferrata Michielli Strobe – Gina had bought a beautiful book on the Via Ferrata, (will get a link) – and due to perfect planning, the Michielli Strobel Via Ferrata happened to be located right across the way from our campsite – the mountain of wall facing us.

We hiked up a pretty steep rocky ground, up and away from the road, through the trees until we eventually reached the plaque that marked the beginning of the route. We kitted up in our beautiful Ferrata kit, and headed towards the first obstacle, which, for me, was the very first ladder. I very quickly felt uneasy, and disappointingly, completely froze and had to turn back – something to this day I feel terrible about – as it wasn’t a great start to our Via Ferrata hiking trip.

We back tracked, back down the same steep slope we worked so hard on going up, and seeing all the people heading up towards the starting point – which made me feel worse.

Gina at the start of Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel

Gina at the start of Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel

Italian Dolomites

Italian Dolomites

We arrived back at the campsite, and decided to head up the next valley over – to not waste a good day – and hike up Mount Lagazuoi at the top of Falzarego Pass. The scenery was fantastic, and once we parked Claude at the bottom of the mountain, and checked out the tourist shop at the bottom, we headed up the mountain – but yet again, I had to back out as I was still feeling the nerves of my earlier attempt – Gina went ahead, as she’s awesome – and reached the top of Mount Lagazuoi without any trouble. She had a great time up at the top, taking in all the views, and shooting amazing panoramas of the view across all the valley. Then, she took the Lagazuoi cable car right back down.

View from Mount

View from Mount Lagazuoi

View from Mount

View from Mount Lagazuoi

We drove steadily back down the pass, and stopped off at Cortina – where we grabbed a pizza, and headed back to Stinky (our aptly named tent), where the moon was just rising behind the first mountain of our Ferrata trip.

Gina's panorama from Mount Lagazuoi

Gina’s panorama from Mount Lagazuoi

Mount

Mount

Pizza time!

Pizza time!

Also, on this night – my beloved camera, the camera I learned photography with, the Canon EOS 400D died.


28
Aug 12

Freiburg (DE) to Cortina d’Ampezzo (IT)

(Due to some reason or another, I forgot to write this back in 2012 – so now, 2 and a half years later, I’m attempting to remember the details of our epic trip we did together to Italy).

After filling Claude to the max with all of our gear, we hit the road on what would be a 6 hour drive from Freiburg to Cortina d’Ampezzo – which would be our first stop on our Italian vacation.

We drove, towards lake Konstantz, through to Innsbruck in Austria, past Lago di Landro (pictured below with Gina) and on to the beautiful Cortina d’Ampezzo – where we would stay for a few days. We found ourself a stunning wee campsite called Olympia – and pithed our tent on the banks of the river that ran through the camp.

Gina at Lago di Landro

Gina at Lago di Landro

Gina & Claude at Cortina

Gina & Claude at Cortina

Due to the epic drive – we just toured Cortina in the evening, taking in all the epic views that the Dolomites had to offer, and had our first pizza of the trip.


29
Apr 12

Lake Constance, Liechtenstein & St. Gallen

It was going to be a glorious sunny weekend, so we decided to go for a little spin around Lake Constance, and pay a friendly visit to some neighboring countries. We set off very early in the morning on Saturday, so that we could enjoy our breakfast already on the sunny shores of the Lake in the Konstanz town. We pumped up Claude and punched the coordinates to Henry, and not even half seven we were already whizzing on the highway. We also decided that the weekend will be touristy and not hard core, so I was sporting my pretty green summer dress for the occasion, and even painted my toe nails for the first time this year. Everything was bound to be fun this weekend.

Less than two hour drive took us to the heart of Konstanz. We found a nice parking spot (even though a bit pricey, and definitely not price winning like the one in Scotland) in the center by the bahnhof, and Henry delivered us on foot the 200 meters to the “tourist information”. Unfortunately it turned out that the tourist information was only a board with the city plan and fun colored little lights, so we didn’t get a copy of the city plan, and were on our own for exploring the surrounds. First we got to see the old Rathaus and the rotating statue of Imperia basking in the morning sun.

Konstanz Rathaus

Imperia

That was all good fun but by then I was really hungry for breakfast, and it didn’t seem like there were any nice cafees/bakeries by the water, so we wandered off along the coast past the Pulver-turm and Rheintor-turm across the bridge over Rhein to the other side of town. That was even more dead though, so we decided old town would be out best bet and went to potter around the cathedral. The old town was really pretty, with beautiful old houses and churches and at the end we even managed to find a nice place to get coffees and muffins, which made us happy. By that time the town also filled up with people a bit, and it started to be very sunny and hot.

Iest by the Rhine bridge

Konstanz cathedral

Konstanz old house

Fountain Bird

Konstanz square

Old houses

We decided that we’ve seen enough of Konstanz after the breakfast, and went for our next stop, Marienschlucht – a deep, narrow gorge on the side of the Lake near Wallhausen. It was not so easy to find, as it is not particularly well promoted on the road signs to say the least, but we managed at last, and immersed ourselves deep into the rocks and lavish vegetation alongside a precipitous drop of a brook, onto wooden stairs and bridges. Down by the lake there was a little beach and a pier for ferries scheduled to get people to the other places on the lake, but since we had Claude waiting for us, we climbed those 200m in altitude (said some sweaty guy, was probably less than that) back up. It was a fun little stop on our trip.

Gina in the Schlucht

Iest in the Schlucht

On the pier

I made some artsy pictures too.

Artsy I

Artsy II

Artsy III

After the wilderness of Marienschlucht it was time to see some manicured gardens and fine architecture. The Salem monastery and palace has all that and even more – as our guide says,

The former Cistercian abbey at Salem is one of the most important cultural heritage sites in the Lake Constance region – and one of the most beautiful. Salem Monastery and Palace is a singular combination of Gothic solemnity and Baroque splendor.”

Indeed. To be honest though, we didn’t really go inside, we had enough to do for the day, so we just had a look around, and packed away for the next touristy thing to do, though not before we bought a nice panoramic map of the lake region and finally got a plan of Konstanz for our next visit too.

Salem

Salem

Our next stop was the pink pilgrim church of Birnau, beautifully set by the lake with a killer view of the Alps. It was one fine church on the inside as well, one of the prettiest we’ve seen. Unfortunately it was forbidden to take any pictures inside, and also some kind of religious ritual was in progress, so we didn’t linger for long, got back into the sun and bought some fresh strawberries too.

Birnau

Birnau

By now all the tourists made it to the Lake for the weekend, it was blazing hot in the scorching sun, and it was impossible to park anywhere, especially not in Meersburg, the gem of the Lake. But we managed eventually to find a spot, and enjoyed all the medieval splurge of the town. We also enjoyed the old castle, the swing band by the new castle, the water mill, the ice cream, the views of the Lake, and the stone dogs.

Rathaus

Hotel Weinstube Löven

Old town

New castle

Water mill

Grumpy dog

After all this we are already mighty tired and went to our selected campsite with Alpenview. To our big surprise it was all full though, and not even our tiny tent was accepted for the night. We continued along the Lake to the east, and were turned away a couple more times before finding one last spot of grass in a campsite by Fischbach. While we were pitching our tent there, between two parties of douches, the wind picked up and the cloudy front came, and the Lake showed us some big waves. We had curry wurst with pommes and beer for dinner (some of us without the wurst of course), and went to sleep real early. We also figured out why the camps were so full and the mystery of the high douchebag concentration – the “Tuning world” fair was going on in the area. Duh!

Gina & waves

In the morning we got up early, dressed prettily (we have plans for the capital city today!), and continued our tour around the Lake on the northern shores, soon reaching Austria, enjoying the lovely views but not really stopping until we reached Liechtenstein. Liechtenstein is a tiny country of only 160 km2, squeezed between Austria and Switzerland, and lying in the Alps. The weather was funky, it was very windy and some very dark clouds were lingering over the mountains on the horizon but somehow we managed to stay in the sun for the entire time in Liechtenstein. Our first port of call was of course the Vaduz castle, which is not open to the public as the prince still lives there, but it’s beautiful also from the outside, together with the mountain view. From the castle viewpoint we also had a rather good overview of the whole principality. We then drove even more up to get a nice photoshoot of the local beauty.

Vaduz

Vaduz Castle

Liechtenstein

Vaduz, the capital, is very tiny to match the vibe of the whole country, so there was not much to do. But we enjoyed some art (and it needs to be said that Vaduz understands the point of statues in the streets, and Freiburg has a lot to learn in this area – the eyesores of Freiburg shall have a special post on their own one day), some architecture, and some awesome ideas. One of them was a small steel&glass box of book shelves on the street – free to deposit your finished books or to take one to read! And on top of that there was a stamp in there to mark your acquired book(s) with “freies buch – Offener Bücherschrank Liechenstein”, which makes it an awesome souvenir indeed. I found an old edition of Erle Stanley Gardner’s “The Case of the Drowsy Mosquito” paperback, which I took, stamped and was very happy with.

Vaduz art

Rolex street clockery

Gina & Drowsy mosquito

Iest & Vaduz main (only?) street

Welcome to Liechtenstein

After that there was really not much else to do, so we decided to follow the scenic route back to Switzerland, to our last big destination for the trip, St. Gallen. St. Gallen is a city famous for its rich history and beautiful abbey/medieval library complex, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. When we got to St. Gallen town, we were a bit pessimistic about the whole thing – the streets were completely deserted (which made the place feel like after a zombie apocalypse, this impression even exacerbated by the wind chasing a lonely empty coke can, rattling with an echo down the street). Clearly, this was not a place to be even for the locals. So we were a little disheartened, but only until we actually got to the abbey. There we finally found out what the fuss was al about because the place truly is beautiful. This is what UNESCO has to say about it:

The Convent of St Gall, a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery, was, from the 8th century to its secularization in 1805, one of the most important in Europe. Its library is one of the richest and oldest in the world and contains precious manuscripts such as the earliest-known architectural plan drawn on parchment. From 1755 to 1768, the conventual area was rebuilt in Baroque style. The cathedral and the library are the main features of this remarkable architectural complex, reflecting 12 centuries of continuous activity.

The interior of the cathedral is magnificent (and we were lucky enough to come in the middle of an organ concert, which added to the grandeur of the place), even better than the Birnau church we saw the day before, so we were not so sorry we could not take pictures there, and made it all up in taking pictures here. We also visited part of the medieval library, and found another treasure there – the Book of Kells! probably only on a loan from Ireland, the awesome coolness was on display behind a glass. So we were eventually very happy about our St. Gallen visit and enjoyed it a lot, adding a funky church roof and a historical weather station to the list of sights of the day.

Old town St. Gallen

Old town St. Gallen II

Inside St. Gallen Abbey

Huge fitted closets for multi-colored robes

St. Gallen Abbey

Book of Kells

Funky roofs

Weather station – Iestyn discombobulated

From St. Gallen we pretty much already headed home, didn’t stop in Konstanz on the way back any more but instead stopped for food and a little stroll in another historical town on the Lake, Radolfzell. We also went to dip our toes in the cool waters of the Lake for the last time, took one last picture of some fine sculpture art, and after that, sadly, we were really heading home for the night.

Radolfzell – Iest checking out his weekend ‘sunburn’

Dipping toes

Bye-bye, Lake Constance


10
Mar 12

Staufen

When we went to Belchen last week, we drove through this picturesque tiny town, nested under the Black forest hills, and guarded by a ruin of a castle in the middle of wineries. We were too wet and tired to stop there last week but decided to pay a visit to Staufen to explore its little streets, and to see what the geothermal drilling fuss is all about. (Nothing, really.) The sun was shining, and the spring is clearly here to stay. We found a nice little trail that starts going up to the castle ruin, then circles the town going through the nearby hills and a couple of viewpoints, and then gently rolls back into town on the other side. Perfect stroll for a lazy sunny day.

The castle is only ruins but you can still go up the tower to have some nice panoramic views. Which we did. We also saw a little oen bach lost running around in the vineyards and crying. Iest said it would not make it through the night, but I think it did.

Staufen ruin

From the castle we made our way into the forest, with some occasional views back through the trees. The trail to the St. Johannes chapel was all meditative, lined with signs bearing quotations from haute literature about how trees and nature will set you free and stuff (ok my German is not all that good, but I did notice the forest/tree theme connecting them all, and I even knew the one from Faust – Grau, teurer Freund, ist alle Theorie, und grün des Lebens goldner Baum), so altogether it was no wonder that the goats living by the chapel are so chilled out – they surely know the true meaning of life.

St. Johannes chapel

Goats

From there it was only a short walk to the Messerschmidfelsen with a lovely view, where we had a little chat with some locals, and we were on our way back down to town.

Messeschmidfelsen

In town we checked the historical centre, which was charming, but we also found ourselves a bit hungry by then, so we thought it would be a good idea to sit somewhere in the sun and have a little grub. The flammkuchen we ordered was delicious, but when the sun went a bit down and cut our table from its warmth we had to finish quite quickly. Altogether, we found Staufen very cute and would be even nice to live there but we agreed that riding my bike for like 25 kms every morning and night to and from work might be a little bit too much.

Staufen

Rathouse

Iest with the castle

Iest with a beer (which was mine)

Bacchus


04
Mar 12

Parov Stelar – live!

Finally the day of Parov Stelar band arriving to our provincial town came! Parov Stelar Princess Tour 2012!

We were of course very excited about this, especially me, because Parov had been my favorite artist for over two years, and yet their concert had never been in a reasonable proximity to me. Until now. I got the tickets as soon as we found out Freiburg is on the lucky tour, beginning of December. This gave me whole three months of excitement, while still making a cool christmas present for Iestyn. Talk about efficient.

On the day we left nothing to chance – we arrived at seven and patiently waited for E-Werk to open and let us in. This meant we got in early enough to see Parov’s tools close up, including the logo of the tour – yes, Parov is of course a cat lover. We had a couple of drinks to get us in the mood (not that that was really needed). The place started filling up quickly, and soon we were standing in the middle of dense crowd in some very humid heat. Never mind, not long after the show began, and it was just as good as we imagined it would be!

Parov’s playground

Sooon!

Catgroove

Max the sax


03
Mar 12

Belchen 1414m (Spring is here!)

Beautiful sunny Saturday morning, full of glory. We decided to go for a proper nice walk to celebrate the winter retreat. The target was the hill of Belchen, the fourth highest peak of the Black Forest, lying in the lesser explored south-of-Freiburg area.
We parked Claude in a small village of Münstertal, which is at about 400 meters altitude, which according to our trusted guidebook meant a trail of some 1120 meters in altitude gain to get to the top of Belchen; and that in only some six kilometers in length, so pretty much straight up. Once we hit the slope, the signs were clear – the spring had arrived! Birds chirping, sun shining, snow melting – plus I could totally tell by the way my hair was glowing.

Spring is here!

Soon we left Münstertal below, and immersed ourselves in the deep forest. Marching up like machines, we saw the altimeter on Iest’s watch flashing crazily, and giving up soon after – poor thing couldn’t keep up with us. (Even though it’s fair to say that this day did not find Iest in his top form, he puffed like a steam engine and sweated gallons. Good thing there were some refreshment stations along the way. Me, on the other hand, was running around like a gazellette enjoying the spring vibrations.) After a while we ventured into the snow territory, even though the snow was clearly giving out to the spring mood.

Münstertal

Forest sans snow

Forest with snow

Refreshment station

When we emerged from the forest at Hohkelch, we already got some pretty views, and despite the sun, the snow was quite deep at places. Snowshoes were not necessary but would not have been completely out of place. But once we traversed more to the southern side of the hill there was only very little snow, and it was a good place for our right-under-the-top break in the sun, with a snack and yes our moose thermos full of tea, which was nice.

Hohkelch

Almost there

Nice view

When we got to the top we were intrigued by a wooden box with circular holes high up and a snowman. After a close investigation, we soon discovered that the snowman was just built by some kids, but the wooden box remained mystery – no visible entrance from any side, no discernible use. Iestyn studied carefully the scribbles at the picnic table nearby but to no avail.

Belchen top mysteries

Iest

Views

The views were pretty but there was not much to do, so we decided to slide down on the other side of the hill, to get back to the valley where we left Claude. According to our guidebook simplified tiny map there should be some trails going down that way, and we knew the general direction, so there was no way to get lost. What we did not really think through was the fact that we were going down the shady side, and also the steeper cliffy one. So, in no time at all, we found ourselves thigh-deep in wet snow with every step, no path in sight, and falling over our pretty heads. Since we’ve been know to be pretty feisty in situations like this, we just sucked it up, and persevered determinedly until we part slid, part toiled and part plowed through that white mush under the snowline, found a trail and finished still in good mood but mighty tired of the day.


16
Feb 12

Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants, Strasbourg

We got invited to a wine tasting/exhibition event in Strasbourg by a friend of mine, who is a great wine enthusiast. As we don’t go to events like this very often (may be we will start now), it was more of a social visit for me to catch up with Martin, who I hadn’t seen in quite a while. But it turned out to be a good fun on its own as well, and we had a good time.

The Salon des Vins was organised by a body of independent winemakers from all over France, and it is an annual event similar as they have in other French cities. In the morning we had a bit of a problem with Henry, who decided he did not want to navigate in France, and quitted pretty much right on the bridge between Kehl and Strasbourg, but since we had a map too, and my great orientation and navigating skills came to help, we were there in no time nevertheless.

The place was quite big – apparently over 550 stalls of individual wineries, each with approx. 5-10 wines. Had we been on our own, we would have been quite lost, running around with our glasses as headless chickens, getting wasted on subpar stuff, not knowing good regions, good years or good names. Fortunately, we got to tag along with Martin, who did his research beforehand, went through the big fat catalogue, marking the stuff to be tasted selectively, building also on his experience from last year and on some impressive knowledge. So on top of tasting some exquisite wines, we also got the “wines for dummies” intro to wines from him, which was really interesting and fun. So all in all, everything worked out fine.

Vignerons

Gina enjoying the day

Of course there was the thing that one of us had to do the driving, and therefore not the drinking. Fortunately, Iestyn got completely wasted the night before, was massively hungover, and therefore did not mind taking up the role of the designated driver, as long as he could settle his stomach with a gargantuan French baguette stuffed with proper cheese and meat.

Iest

That’s the stuff!

The selection of wines was really big and some samples were just absolutely great. We also saw some more bizarre pieces on exhibition, such as these. But all in all it was a respectable wine event.

A bit overdressed perhaps?

Not drinking this without my lederhosen on

Of course, apart from the great wine, there were all the usual wine add-ons on sale in really tempting selections.

Cheese

Meat

Chocolate!

Of course at the end I selected the best samples to take with us home, so that Iestyn got something out of it as well. Can’t wait to break into them one of these nice evenings. And may be next year we go again.


12
Feb 12

Snowshoeing around Kandel

Beautiful sunny Sunday, only like -20 degrees outside, perfect conditions to run around in snowshoes. Of course, only if you happen to have fancy cool snowshoes, otherwise gaiters have to do. We decided for a roundtrip around Kandel because the views from there are pretty in good weather. We took our guidebook and also picked up our friend Hendrik on the way, not too early in the morning as usual, but not too late either.

Up on Kandel we first headed for the very top, with nice panoramas all around. My snowshoes worked nicely, I could run around in deep snow like it’s no-one’s business. We did not spend too much time up on the top, as it was quite cold, and we set out on our roundtrip, getting lost almost immediately.

Kandel

Gina on top

View from Kandel

Of course in a place like Kandel it does not really matter if you get lost, we just sort of kept our direction, and didn’t mind the rough deep unforgiving snow with hidden steep rock faces where one step on the wrong spot could be the matter of life and death and all that in blinding blizzard… ok, exaggerating a little bit, but truth is we were a bit surprised to arrive at Gummenhofhütte after good two hours of wandering, while according to our map that place was no further than 1,5 kms from the top of Kandel. Nevermind, at least we were back on the map and continued according to plan.

Deep in the snow and woods

Iest

by Gummenhofhütte

From here it was a piece of cake – soon we found Thomashütte with a pretty view, and continued over Kandelfelsen back to Claude. Frankly, we still did not arrive to Claude from the right direction technically speaking, so we must have strayed a bit somewhere from our guide-prescribed tour, but may be we also had more soft deep powder snow to play with on our way.

Gina with the moose


22
Jan 12

Beaumaris

Beaumaris Castle

“The town is the capital of Anglesey. It has a promenade Pier (admission 2d.) and provides facilities for bathing, boating, bowls and golf. Near the Castle are the Corporation Baths. Mixed bathing is allowed.

The chief object of interest is Beaumaris Castle (admission 2d.), which no visitor should miss seeing. It covers a large extent, but is not of great height. It is now under the care of H.M. Office Works. There is an outer wall with ten low towers, and an advanced work called the Gunners’ Walk. On the outside of it’s walls are rings for mooring the vessels that came up to it by a marine canal. The main structure is nearly quadrangular in form, with a large round tower at each angle. The banqueting hall, the state rooms, the domestic apartments, and a small chapel reached by a wooden ladder near the site of the old racquet court, may all be distinctly traced.

The castle was built by Edward I, who then changed the name of the place from Bonover to Beaumaris, a French word descriptive of it’s pleasant situation on low ground. The only event of importance in the history of the Castle was it’s surrender to the Parliament in 1646.

The grounds are tastefully laid out and contain tennis courts.

The Church (Sunday services 8, 11, and 6:30; daily service, 10) was erected in the latter part of the thirteenth century, but the chancel dates only from the sixteenth century. It contains some ancient stalls, which finely carved misericords, monuments to members of the Bulkeley family (the best is in the vestry), a stone, on the south side of the communion table, in memory of the father of Sir Philip Sydney (d. 1563), and a tablet in memory of David Hughes, a native of the island, through whose beneficence the town possesses a Grammar School, erected in 1603, and Almshouses. The north door is secured by a stout wooden bar drawn from a cavity in the wall. (One of the two gates of the churchyard is kept unlocked for the admission of visitors.)

A curious custom, the origin of which in unknown, annually in November marks the close of the Anglesey Hunt. A quantiy of hot pennies is shoveled from the balcony of the Bulkeley Arms Hotel into the waiting crowd below, and they scramble for the coins to the accompaniment of music played by a local band.”

Banks.-Lloyds, National Provincial, Midland.
Concerts and entertainments in the Pier Pavilion.
Early Closing Day – Wednesday
Ferry.-The Bangor Corporation steamer plies houerly between Bangor pier and Beaumaris pier, Fare, 8d.; 1s Return (children, 4d and 6d. Weekly, 4s. (children 2s.).
Golf.-A capital nine-hole course about a mile and a half fom the town. Fees, 2/- day 10/- week.
Lawn Tennis, Bowls etc in the Castle Pleasure Grounds
Motor-buses run from Bangor Station several times daily all the year round via Garth Ferry and Menai Bridge. The buses also run between Beaumaris and Llangoed.
There is a steam ferry between Beaumaris and Garth Point, Bangor, in the summer months.
The Liverpool and North Wales Steamers call daily during the season.
Population.- 1.839

Beaumaris is still a lovely wee town, with a very beautiful promenade and an epic vista of the Snowdonia mountains over the Menai Straits. The castle has always fascinated me, as it’s moat still pretty much surrounds the castle today, which gives it a lovely feel. I do love the old retro photograph of the castle with all the Ivy on it.