02
Sep 12

Florence

We woke up incredibly early – as we knew Florence would be full to the brim of little gems for us to go and see, and with a whole day scheduled, we didn’t want to waste any time. After a fresh breakfast, we hurried up a couple hundred meters up the road to our favourite new view point; Piazzale Michelangelo – but now as the sun was just rising, it would paint Florence even prettier than it was last night.

View from Piazzale Michelangelo

View from Piazzale Michelangelo

Gina and the Arno River

Gina and the Arno River

After taking in the beauty from the Piazza, we made our way down towards the River Arno, and walked up towards Ponte Vecchio, “a Medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno River, noted for still having shops built along it, as was once common” – but as we were crossing over it so early, shop was closed. Our first port of call was the World famous Uffizi Gallery, an art gallery that’s among the oldest and most famous art museums of Europe (!!). We were terribly excited.

Gina walking along Ponte Vecchio

Gina walking along Ponte Vecchio

The museum itself was pretty fantastic, unfortunately – as with much museums, taking photos was strictly forbidden, so we didn’t manage to take any of the beautiful rooms, but we were awe struck by some of the works on displays, the building itself was also amazing, with some really amazing corridors and views over the River Arno – and looking back towards Ponte Vecchio.

From here, we headed back outside to take in Florence’s architecture – as pretty much every single building we saw was incredible. We saw various statues from masters such as Leonardo da Vinci casually out in the street on an old chapel called Orsanmichele, to very interesting ‘gargoyle’ type decorations in the streets.

St. John the Evangelist at Orsanmichele

St. John the Evangelist at Orsanmichele

Random wee 'gargoyle'

Random wee ‘gargoyle’

We continued to walk around the streets, and came across a replica of Michelangelo’s ‘David’, which was located in the sculpture’s original position, in front of the Palazzo della Signoria – which blew my mind. Also, where ever you looked on this Plazzo, every single sculpture was amazing – I’ve never seen anywhere like it, and I’m extremely happy to have been there.

Menelaus supporting the body of Patroclus

Menelaus supporting the body of Patroclus

Replica of Michelangelo's David

Replica of Michelangelo’s David at Palazzo della Signoria

Florence - Lomography by Gina

Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo – Lomography by Gina

Palazzo della Signoria - Lomography by Gina

Palazzo della Signoria – Lomography by Gina

Streets of Florence with Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore

Streets of Florence with Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore

Everywhere you look, the one dominant feature on the Florence skyline is the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence Cathedral) – so a swift walk to Piazza del Duomo was in order – this is the main square which sits around the Cathedral, and the Baptistery.

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore ('Duomo')

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (‘Duomo’)

Panorama of the Cathedral's Façade.

Panorama of the Cathedral’s Façade.

The Duomo and Baptistery of St. John from Piazza del Duomo

The Duomo and Baptistery of St. John from Piazza del Duomo

Once the crowds calmed down, we did manage to get into the fantastic Cathedral, but unfortunately, I didn’t manage to get any photos from inside.

By now, we were getting pretty tired – as we’d done a LOT of sight seeing. I had a great idea, of heading back to the tent for a couple of hours, just to chill, and get something from the campsite bar and wait for it to get dark – as I thought to myself (and then later told Gina), that with all these amazing sculptures and buildings dotted around, the good people of Florence surely has the correct idea to light up these amazing works in the night with pretty lights, so it would be worth our while to come back later on in the evening to get some night photography shots in. After getting a well deserved Italian ice cream, we headed back up to the campsite.

23_GinaMask

Gina’s mask!

Ice cream!

Ice cream!

So, after a quick break – we headed back to the best places we’d seen during the day, and took some night time shots! And, as I had predicted – everything was indeed spectacular.

25_Piazza-del-Duomo

25_Piazza-del-Duomo

Gina and the Porcellino Boar

Gina and the Porcellino Boar

Arno River

Arno River

Excellent day!


01
Sep 12

From Lake Garda to Verona and Florence

Lake Garda Panorama

Lake Garda Panorama

We woke up, to see that the brunt of the storm had passed us over night, and what was left was a couple of rainy patches. After packing up stinky, we headed back up the road, so we can have a nice view of Lake Garda in all it’s glory.

We then decided to drive along the coast of Lake Garda, South towards Verona. Along the way, we stopped off at a beautiful village, with it’s own castle located right on the lake: Malcesine. Here we packed Claude up, and walked a few hundred meters along the lake right into the beautiful medieval town – and have a look around.

Malcesine - Lomography by Gina

Malcesine – Lomography by Gina

Malcesine - Lomography by Gina

Malcesine – Lomography by Gina

After watching a couple of people brave the wind on their windsurfing boards, we headed straight down to Verona. Verona is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and had lots to offer for us, it has a lot of Roman ruins, such as the Coliseum style ‘Arena’ to the famous wee balcony of Juliet’s house (Romeo & Juliet).

Buildings of Verona

Buildings of Verona

Verona Arena

Verona Arena

Juliet's Balcony

Juliet’s Balcony

Gina on top of the stairs at Piazza dei Signori

Gina on top of the stairs at Piazza dei Signori

After another pizza :) (and over-hearing a Tourist ask herself if there’s a Pizza-Hut close by), the sun decided to shine – so we slowly made our way back to Claude, and prepare ourselves for the dive South to the beautiful city that was Florence.

We arrived just after the sunset, and drove around a bit – while trying to locate one of the campsites that Gina had found for us before hand, and boy we were in luck. It was a couple of hundred yards away from the beautiful viewpoint: Piazzale Michelangelo – a lovely square, perched up above the river with magnificent panoramic views of the whole city.

Gina at Piazzale Michelangelo

Gina at Piazzale Michelangelo

Florence at night.

Florence at night.

Us at Florence

Us at Florence

We retired to the campsite for the evening – as we were both pretty tired, and hit the campsite bar for a relaxing evening.


31
Aug 12

Bolzano to Lake Garda

After another day in the mountains, we decided to leave Cortina, and make our way deeper into Italy. Our first location was Bolzano – a small, and beautiful city just to the West of Cortina.

Gina in the streets of Bolzano

Gina in the streets of Bolzano

Bolzano Cathedral

Bolzano Cathedral

After walking the streets, and visiting the city’s many market stalls in the rain, we headed into Chiesa dei Francescani (St. Francis Church) – where we got our first glimpse of an Italian cloister – “dating from the fourteenth century, is Gothic with Gothic arches trefoil, and all decorated with an elaborate series of frescoes”.

After another solid pizza, we headed out of Bolzano, South, towards Lake Garda, where we would setup camp for the night, right on the shores of the lake. A massive storm was brewing, so we chilled that night at the campsite bar, before going to bed.

Gina at Lake Garda

Gina at Lake Garda

Lake Garda Panorama

Lake Garda Panorama


29
Aug 12

Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel & Falzarego pass

We woke up at the crack of dawn – had ourselves a nice camping breakfast, and hit the first Via Ferrata of the trip – Via Ferrata Michielli Strobe – Gina had bought a beautiful book on the Via Ferrata, (will get a link) – and due to perfect planning, the Michielli Strobel Via Ferrata happened to be located right across the way from our campsite – the mountain of wall facing us.

We hiked up a pretty steep rocky ground, up and away from the road, through the trees until we eventually reached the plaque that marked the beginning of the route. We kitted up in our beautiful Ferrata kit, and headed towards the first obstacle, which, for me, was the very first ladder. I very quickly felt uneasy, and disappointingly, completely froze and had to turn back – something to this day I feel terrible about – as it wasn’t a great start to our Via Ferrata hiking trip.

We back tracked, back down the same steep slope we worked so hard on going up, and seeing all the people heading up towards the starting point – which made me feel worse.

Gina at the start of Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel

Gina at the start of Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel

Italian Dolomites

Italian Dolomites

We arrived back at the campsite, and decided to head up the next valley over – to not waste a good day – and hike up Mount Lagazuoi at the top of Falzarego Pass. The scenery was fantastic, and once we parked Claude at the bottom of the mountain, and checked out the tourist shop at the bottom, we headed up the mountain – but yet again, I had to back out as I was still feeling the nerves of my earlier attempt – Gina went ahead, as she’s awesome – and reached the top of Mount Lagazuoi without any trouble. She had a great time up at the top, taking in all the views, and shooting amazing panoramas of the view across all the valley. Then, she took the Lagazuoi cable car right back down.

View from Mount

View from Mount Lagazuoi

View from Mount

View from Mount Lagazuoi

We drove steadily back down the pass, and stopped off at Cortina – where we grabbed a pizza, and headed back to Stinky (our aptly named tent), where the moon was just rising behind the first mountain of our Ferrata trip.

Gina's panorama from Mount Lagazuoi

Gina’s panorama from Mount Lagazuoi

Mount

Mount

Pizza time!

Pizza time!

Also, on this night – my beloved camera, the camera I learned photography with, the Canon EOS 400D died.


28
Aug 12

Freiburg (DE) to Cortina d’Ampezzo (IT)

(Due to some reason or another, I forgot to write this back in 2012 – so now, 2 and a half years later, I’m attempting to remember the details of our epic trip we did together to Italy).

After filling Claude to the max with all of our gear, we hit the road on what would be a 6 hour drive from Freiburg to Cortina d’Ampezzo – which would be our first stop on our Italian vacation.

We drove, towards lake Konstantz, through to Innsbruck in Austria, past Lago di Landro (pictured below with Gina) and on to the beautiful Cortina d’Ampezzo – where we would stay for a few days. We found ourself a stunning wee campsite called Olympia – and pithed our tent on the banks of the river that ran through the camp.

Gina at Lago di Landro

Gina at Lago di Landro

Gina & Claude at Cortina

Gina & Claude at Cortina

Due to the epic drive – we just toured Cortina in the evening, taking in all the epic views that the Dolomites had to offer, and had our first pizza of the trip.


29
Apr 12

Lake Constance, Liechtenstein & St. Gallen

It was going to be a glorious sunny weekend, so we decided to go for a little spin around Lake Constance, and pay a friendly visit to some neighboring countries. We set off very early in the morning on Saturday, so that we could enjoy our breakfast already on the sunny shores of the Lake in the Konstanz town. We pumped up Claude and punched the coordinates to Henry, and not even half seven we were already whizzing on the highway. We also decided that the weekend will be touristy and not hard core, so I was sporting my pretty green summer dress for the occasion, and even painted my toe nails for the first time this year. Everything was bound to be fun this weekend.

Less than two hour drive took us to the heart of Konstanz. We found a nice parking spot (even though a bit pricey, and definitely not price winning like the one in Scotland) in the center by the bahnhof, and Henry delivered us on foot the 200 meters to the “tourist information”. Unfortunately it turned out that the tourist information was only a board with the city plan and fun colored little lights, so we didn’t get a copy of the city plan, and were on our own for exploring the surrounds. First we got to see the old Rathaus and the rotating statue of Imperia basking in the morning sun.

Konstanz Rathaus

Imperia

That was all good fun but by then I was really hungry for breakfast, and it didn’t seem like there were any nice cafees/bakeries by the water, so we wandered off along the coast past the Pulver-turm and Rheintor-turm across the bridge over Rhein to the other side of town. That was even more dead though, so we decided old town would be out best bet and went to potter around the cathedral. The old town was really pretty, with beautiful old houses and churches and at the end we even managed to find a nice place to get coffees and muffins, which made us happy. By that time the town also filled up with people a bit, and it started to be very sunny and hot.

Iest by the Rhine bridge

Konstanz cathedral

Konstanz old house

Fountain Bird

Konstanz square

Old houses

We decided that we’ve seen enough of Konstanz after the breakfast, and went for our next stop, Marienschlucht – a deep, narrow gorge on the side of the Lake near Wallhausen. It was not so easy to find, as it is not particularly well promoted on the road signs to say the least, but we managed at last, and immersed ourselves deep into the rocks and lavish vegetation alongside a precipitous drop of a brook, onto wooden stairs and bridges. Down by the lake there was a little beach and a pier for ferries scheduled to get people to the other places on the lake, but since we had Claude waiting for us, we climbed those 200m in altitude (said some sweaty guy, was probably less than that) back up. It was a fun little stop on our trip.

Gina in the Schlucht

Iest in the Schlucht

On the pier

I made some artsy pictures too.

Artsy I

Artsy II

Artsy III

After the wilderness of Marienschlucht it was time to see some manicured gardens and fine architecture. The Salem monastery and palace has all that and even more – as our guide says,

The former Cistercian abbey at Salem is one of the most important cultural heritage sites in the Lake Constance region – and one of the most beautiful. Salem Monastery and Palace is a singular combination of Gothic solemnity and Baroque splendor.”

Indeed. To be honest though, we didn’t really go inside, we had enough to do for the day, so we just had a look around, and packed away for the next touristy thing to do, though not before we bought a nice panoramic map of the lake region and finally got a plan of Konstanz for our next visit too.

Salem

Salem

Our next stop was the pink pilgrim church of Birnau, beautifully set by the lake with a killer view of the Alps. It was one fine church on the inside as well, one of the prettiest we’ve seen. Unfortunately it was forbidden to take any pictures inside, and also some kind of religious ritual was in progress, so we didn’t linger for long, got back into the sun and bought some fresh strawberries too.

Birnau

Birnau

By now all the tourists made it to the Lake for the weekend, it was blazing hot in the scorching sun, and it was impossible to park anywhere, especially not in Meersburg, the gem of the Lake. But we managed eventually to find a spot, and enjoyed all the medieval splurge of the town. We also enjoyed the old castle, the swing band by the new castle, the water mill, the ice cream, the views of the Lake, and the stone dogs.

Rathaus

Hotel Weinstube Löven

Old town

New castle

Water mill

Grumpy dog

After all this we are already mighty tired and went to our selected campsite with Alpenview. To our big surprise it was all full though, and not even our tiny tent was accepted for the night. We continued along the Lake to the east, and were turned away a couple more times before finding one last spot of grass in a campsite by Fischbach. While we were pitching our tent there, between two parties of douches, the wind picked up and the cloudy front came, and the Lake showed us some big waves. We had curry wurst with pommes and beer for dinner (some of us without the wurst of course), and went to sleep real early. We also figured out why the camps were so full and the mystery of the high douchebag concentration – the “Tuning world” fair was going on in the area. Duh!

Gina & waves

In the morning we got up early, dressed prettily (we have plans for the capital city today!), and continued our tour around the Lake on the northern shores, soon reaching Austria, enjoying the lovely views but not really stopping until we reached Liechtenstein. Liechtenstein is a tiny country of only 160 km2, squeezed between Austria and Switzerland, and lying in the Alps. The weather was funky, it was very windy and some very dark clouds were lingering over the mountains on the horizon but somehow we managed to stay in the sun for the entire time in Liechtenstein. Our first port of call was of course the Vaduz castle, which is not open to the public as the prince still lives there, but it’s beautiful also from the outside, together with the mountain view. From the castle viewpoint we also had a rather good overview of the whole principality. We then drove even more up to get a nice photoshoot of the local beauty.

Vaduz

Vaduz Castle

Liechtenstein

Vaduz, the capital, is very tiny to match the vibe of the whole country, so there was not much to do. But we enjoyed some art (and it needs to be said that Vaduz understands the point of statues in the streets, and Freiburg has a lot to learn in this area – the eyesores of Freiburg shall have a special post on their own one day), some architecture, and some awesome ideas. One of them was a small steel&glass box of book shelves on the street – free to deposit your finished books or to take one to read! And on top of that there was a stamp in there to mark your acquired book(s) with “freies buch – Offener Bücherschrank Liechenstein”, which makes it an awesome souvenir indeed. I found an old edition of Erle Stanley Gardner’s “The Case of the Drowsy Mosquito” paperback, which I took, stamped and was very happy with.

Vaduz art

Rolex street clockery

Gina & Drowsy mosquito

Iest & Vaduz main (only?) street

Welcome to Liechtenstein

After that there was really not much else to do, so we decided to follow the scenic route back to Switzerland, to our last big destination for the trip, St. Gallen. St. Gallen is a city famous for its rich history and beautiful abbey/medieval library complex, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. When we got to St. Gallen town, we were a bit pessimistic about the whole thing – the streets were completely deserted (which made the place feel like after a zombie apocalypse, this impression even exacerbated by the wind chasing a lonely empty coke can, rattling with an echo down the street). Clearly, this was not a place to be even for the locals. So we were a little disheartened, but only until we actually got to the abbey. There we finally found out what the fuss was al about because the place truly is beautiful. This is what UNESCO has to say about it:

The Convent of St Gall, a perfect example of a great Carolingian monastery, was, from the 8th century to its secularization in 1805, one of the most important in Europe. Its library is one of the richest and oldest in the world and contains precious manuscripts such as the earliest-known architectural plan drawn on parchment. From 1755 to 1768, the conventual area was rebuilt in Baroque style. The cathedral and the library are the main features of this remarkable architectural complex, reflecting 12 centuries of continuous activity.

The interior of the cathedral is magnificent (and we were lucky enough to come in the middle of an organ concert, which added to the grandeur of the place), even better than the Birnau church we saw the day before, so we were not so sorry we could not take pictures there, and made it all up in taking pictures here. We also visited part of the medieval library, and found another treasure there – the Book of Kells! probably only on a loan from Ireland, the awesome coolness was on display behind a glass. So we were eventually very happy about our St. Gallen visit and enjoyed it a lot, adding a funky church roof and a historical weather station to the list of sights of the day.

Old town St. Gallen

Old town St. Gallen II

Inside St. Gallen Abbey

Huge fitted closets for multi-colored robes

St. Gallen Abbey

Book of Kells

Funky roofs

Weather station – Iestyn discombobulated

From St. Gallen we pretty much already headed home, didn’t stop in Konstanz on the way back any more but instead stopped for food and a little stroll in another historical town on the Lake, Radolfzell. We also went to dip our toes in the cool waters of the Lake for the last time, took one last picture of some fine sculpture art, and after that, sadly, we were really heading home for the night.

Radolfzell – Iest checking out his weekend ‘sunburn’

Dipping toes

Bye-bye, Lake Constance


20
Aug 11

Tajikistan

It needs to be said that Gina went gallivanting to Tajikistan. However, since she didn’t go with Iest, she is not allowed to post her travel log here on our blog (yes, the rules are very strict here). So she had to write all about it on her own blog.

Gina in Tajikistan


30
Jul 11

A wedding in the Czech Republic

Over the weekend, we headed over to the Czech Republic for a beautiful Czech wedding. Gina’s best friends Jani and Milan were getting married and we were both invited! (Although I was nearly un-invited due to some Facebook comments gone awry).

We left Freiburg late on Friday evening, with an epic 6 hour, 650 km drive ahead of us to Prague to stay the night. The driving went really well, with no troubles, with Henry the Navigator working well, and Claude the Auto doing awesomely. We arrived into Prague just before 1am, and headed straight to bed, as we had some more travelling to do in the morning, as the wedding was in a town, located the other end of the Czech Republic called Znojmo, a good few hours trek from Prague, through woodland, and extremely sleepy Czech villages.

We departed 9am sharp, and our destination was TvoÅ™ihráz, located at the foot of the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, where the groom, Milan is originally from. We arrived to a very happy Father-of-the-Groom directing us where to park. We parked Claude, and said “Ahoj” to everyone.

Gina Present

Flowers on the Car

To my surprise, there was a traditional Czech Moravian (! Iest wouldn’t know the difference) band playing some awesome music. It was really fun. The wedding was in three parts. The reception came first, this was located here in TvoÅ™ihráz – just behind Milan’s parent’s house, where we were fed with a nice buffet, drinks, and sweet Czech Moravian music. I managed to get the band to pose for me, whilst in the middle of playing a song:

The Band!

Me & Band

After filling our bellies full of goodness, we all caught the bus for about 15 km South to the Town of Znojmo. Here on the trip, I got my first encounter to the Czech locals, and their drinking songs. Everyone, including Gina, were happily merrily sining in Czech as we twiddled over the hills towards Znojmo.

Bride & Groom

Jani & Milan

We arrived at a brewery. This, I thought was epic. I knew the Czech were renowned for their ability to drink, but to have a wedding in a brewery – I thought this was incredible! I was, however, wrong. Located just behind the brewery, was this wee Registry Office, where the ceremony would be taking place – but as we arrived, there was another ceremony in session, this resulted in everyone going to the view point just behind it, over looking the Thaya Dyje River, and the Dam. The valley was beautiful, really pretty views to be had. Jani & Milan was taken away by the photographer of the day for some snaps. Compared to a Welsh wedding, the bride and groom were happily allowed to see each other before the marriage – which I thought was pretty cool!

Gina chilling all pretty

Chapel

We headed inside after the previous ceremony had finished, where the service lasted about 15mins. Again, a massive contrast to a Welsh service. It was all in Czech, so I didn’t catch a word of it. It consisted of some poem readings, and the drunken dude (Uncle maybe?) being funny, and happily drinking a full bottle of wine at the service (picture below).

The Service

The Service

After the ceremony, we all went ahead and took our time to congratulate the new Husband and Wife, individually, by going up to the front of the Service room, and shaking hands, and kissing. This then, followed by something new to me – throwing rice at the Bridge and Groom as they exited the Service Hall:

Throwing of the Rice

The Legend

From the service, we headed back out for some more Wedding photography, this time: group photos. The bus then took us to our final destination – somewhere up North of TvoÅ™ihráz (the place we first arrived to) – but the name of the place has escaped me Horni Dunajovice. Here we were going to be fed, and entertained for the evening. A more Merrily bus twiddled up and over the hills, with a LOT of drunken singing and cheering. We arrived safely at around 4pm.

Eating Hall

We sat with Gina’s Volleyball friends, and I was able to communicate a wee bit with her friends, as they spoke a little bit of English. The food and Beer came out. For starters we had traditional soup. Then came the main meal – and boy it was yum! I had Beef and Dumplings in some good sauce, and Gina had some fried vegetables. I’m a huge fan of the Christmas Cookies that Gina has made over the last couple of Christmas we’ve been together – they are epic – and to my surprise, it’s a traditional thing to bake a massive batch of similar cookies for dessert too!! I was over the moon! Good times. (I hope Gina doesn’t mind me posting a pic of the food here).

Beef and Dumplings

Cookies!!

The stage was set, with a full on live band, and the first dance was ordered. Milan and Jani hit the floor, for a few twirls, then the whole party got up to join them, resulting in throwing the Bride and Groom in the air! The band was pretty good, they played a lot of old Czech songs, and some popular pop songs. Milan’s dad had some seriously epic moves – air guitar and air duck walk!!! Really impressive.

Dancing

Dancing

And that was it for us. The band carried on playing through the evening, but as we had to travel back to Prague that evening. We decided to leave at around 7pm. The drive back was pretty epic, unfortunately for Regi, as we had all sorts of bad weather against us, but Regi did awesome job driving, and took us home safely.

Jani, Monika, Gina & Milan

We arrived safely in Prague just after midnight, and went straight to bed. We had another early start in the morning, as I had to drop off Regi at the airport, as she’s off for a few weeks traveling to the mountains of Tajikistan with a friend – on a well earned, and deserved break. I then, had the epic task of driving all the way back to Freiburg, by myself. To my astonishment, I noticed that the highways, were completely empty of Trucks! It’s a rule here, that on a Sunday, no trucks are allowed on the Highways. This made the journey much easier, and safer.

But, one thing that made the journey even better. I got to have some of my favorite Czech sweets. Kofola and Tatranky! They are both super awesome, such a shame no where else sells them, but it makes getting them from them even more fantastic!

Kofola & Tatranky

It was a great weekend, I really enjoyed myself, and it was a good trip, seeing the back and beyond of the Czech Republic, places that I’d never ever see if I was a tourist there.

Thanks to Jani a Milan for the lovely day!


19
Jun 11

Strasbourg

We just got our Henry navigator last week, so we decided to try him out, and went for a day trip to Strasbourg, even though it looked like rain in the morning. Henry was not deterred though, and bravely got on with the route. He was really good at it too, knowing all kinds of detail and what’s going on in the world. Unfortunately, the cigarette lighter in the car did not work so he was not getting juice, and by the time we got to the parking, he was practically dying.

Anyway, he got us to an award-winning parking lot right in the centre (yes, the award was on display there! you could study it whilst listening to nice soothing sea-sound music that was playing in the corridors to repel homeless people and junkies from inhabiting the lot, thanks to which it did not smell of piss, and totally did deserve the award just for that. The disturbing imagery on the walls was probably there for the same reason.). From there dear Henry gave it a shot to get us to the nearest tourist information centre, but died on the way completely. Fortunately, it was very easy to find just by the cathedral.

The cathedral was just like any other, I wanted to buy a Jesus fridge magnet, but Iest did not let me. It had a nice big organ inside, and funky windows.

On the outside, the cathedral has elaborate decorations, for example this statue of Rudolph von Habsburg, which is weirdly and unsettlingly out of proportion with his legs looking quite midget-like; however, the schlong of the horse is proper.

The weather was nothing special but at least it was not raining, so we marched on. Strasbourg turned out to have many pretty houses, with cute rooftops and flowers and tiny stores, and was generally pretty nice for a walk. Unlike Freiburg, Strasbourg is also a town with a little bit of edge, hidden nastiness, immigration tensions, and Hotel Central. Good thing that they are selling Hattori Hanzo swords everywhere, the locals probably need them often.

This is me in front of what our little guide calls the prettiest house of Strasbourg, La Maison Kammerzell.

We had a lunch at a little creperie with yum crepes, but grossly incompetent service, which saved us money on tips.

Altogether, it was a fun day, and the weather was not nearly as bad as what it looked like in the morning. We had a little bit of a problem getting out of there, as Henry was dead and we did not really remember any rout names, but we managed quite well at the end.


24
Apr 11

Aha – Todtnau, Black Forest Walk

Day 1. Aha – Feldberg (Red line on Map below)

Over the Easter weekend, we did our first epic hike of the Black Forest. We caught the train from Freiburg to a little village called Aha, on the shores of Schluchsee lake, South East of Freiburg. It was a really pleasant trip on the train, enjoying the scenery, and looking at the locals eating sweets.

After a quick lunch on the lake, we headed West, around the Northern shore of the lake, and into the Wilderness of the forest. After ascending for a bit, we were rewarded with a beautiful view of the Schluchsee, and that lovely feeling of Spring, as the trees were starting to bloom.

Schluchsee

Break at Rosshutte

After gaining some height, we stopped at the Rosshutte for a quick break, to read the map, and get some water from a wee spring that was situated behind it. From reading the map, we decided to take a lovely walk up to the highest peak in the area, seeing as it was a viewpoint. This peak was called Zweiseenblick [and as the German enthusiasts among us know, this actually means two-lake-view]. After a joyous walk, we reached Zweiseenblick. It was quite full, it was almost a Tourist Highway, as there was a good group of people at the top, enjoying the views of the Black Forest. We decided not to stay long, and make our way towards Feldberg.

Me looking towards Feldberg

Gina, her Deltoid and the Menzenschwand Valley

Along the way, there plenty of photo opportunities. We saw Feldberg (1,493m) with it’s towers, (which was our destination on day one), and the beautiful Menzenschwand Valley, where Gina showed me how strong she is, (On the photo above, check out her Deltoid!! She’s not even flexing!!) where we can see the town of Hinterdorf – plus a description of how this glacial valley came to be. All in German though.

We made speed, and headed towards Feldbergernof, which is a small, odd place. It’s geared towards the skiers, and snowboarders in Winter, as the slopes of Feldberg above is perfect for beginners for skiing – but as the snow was just about, all gone – it was full of tourists, who was there to enjoy the views. We headed to the cafe, and I got myself my First Black Forest Gateaux since my arrival here. It was very good, and washed down with some beer.

Gateaux a Beer

We headed up to the summit of Feldberg, the highest summit in the Black Forest. Here, on a good clear day, you can see the whole of Alps, and able to make out the Eiger, Jungfrau and even Mt. Blanc. Unfortunately for us the haze was in, so we couldn’t see beyond the Black Forest – but it was still very nice. There was still a bit of snow nested in the shadows of the sun, hidden within folds of the mountain, but the views of the Black Forest were beautiful.

Feldberg Summit (1.493m)

Black Forest

We decided to pitch our tent just off the summit, overlooking the Feldsee lake. A pretty wee circular lake, nested right at the bottom of 300m cliffs, to the East of the summit. According to legend, there’s a ghost that spooks the lake, shouting to hikers “Hey, you! You’re going the wrong way! If you want to go to Feldberg, you must take the different path!” If you look at him then, the spell is broken. No-one knows however, if this rewards the spirit and set him free. For dinner that evening I had some noodles and mushroom sauce, and Gina didn’t eat any, she just went to sleep after all day fun in the sun. Gina fell asleep quite fast, but i played around on the top, looking at the stars, and taking some photographs. As I headed into bed, I realised that I’d forgotten my sleeping mat at home. Luckily for me, it wasn’t very cold that evening, and I managed to sleep ok.

Gina at the Camp

Morning at Camp

Day 2 Feldberg – Todtnau (Blue Line on Map below)

We woke up super early, and made our way back up towards the summit of Feldberg. There wasn’t a soul around, and we were in for another beautiful, hot day. The trek was mostly contouring around Stubenwassen, making our gentle downhill approach to the village of Todtnau. It was a good mornings hike, through very pretty forest, and some un maintained trails, resulting in us taking the wrong path, I was pretty certain there was a Map Black Hole at the point, as nowhere made any sense on the map. Anyhoo – we managed to get back on track, and found a nice picture frame, sitting nicely above Todtnau.

Pretty Forest

Todtnau

Pretty much all the way on this second day, only one thing was on Gina’s mind – Twister Ice cream. So after arriving (after what seemed like an endless downhill from the picture frame), we came to the sleepy Village of Todtnau, where there was a nice market going, which felt really nice. We had some ice creams, (they didn’t have Twister unfortunately) and figured out how to make it back to Freiburg via a bus that was going directly there in an hour or so.

Pub in Todtnau

Ice cream, Gina & Church

It was a lovely trip, and a great first proper hike in the Black Forest. It’s such a beautiful part of the World.

Here’s our route marked out on Google Maps. If you can’t view it – please let me know.


View Black Forest Walks in a larger map