10
Sep 13

Lisbon

Tuesday
Lisbon time! A bit scared of the driving and parking in Lisbon’s tiny, narrow, one-way, crowded streets, we did not let the fear get the best of us and bravely headed in for the morning. Iestyn and Nexy did super well and we arrived at our chosen hyper-modern underground parking lot in the middle of all that mattered in Lisbon.

Gina with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background

Gina with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background

Minature Lisbon from Miraduro da Graça

Minature Lisbon from Miraduro da Graça

We started off at the Miraduro da Graça, a nice viewpoint over the town with a cherry of a church on top. From there we walked over to the gorgeous Igreja São Vincente de Fora, with beautiful azulejo-filled cloister and epic exhibition of 18th-century azulejo illustration of La Fontaine’s Fables. Also, the biggest collection of seashells.

Igreja São Vincente de Fora, Cloister

Igreja São Vincente de Fora, Cloister

Igreja São Vincente de Fora

Igreja São Vincente de Fora

Sea shell collection

Sea shell collection

Quick trip to the flea market behind the church, and outside view of the national pantheon. We were not too keen on the insides of the castle, which was also insanely touristy, so we just made a nice walk around on the top of the hill for views.

Patriarchal Cathedral of St. Mary Major

Patriarchal Cathedral of St. Mary Major

A visit to the cathedral and a couple more churches, and we were ready for a rest in a nice Austrian café with toasted sandwiches, strudel and beer/coffee. This gave us energy for more sightseeing, and we headed to the spectacular Praça do Commercio, where we were approached by drug dealers every time we passed by the central statue of Dom Jose I (no less than five times).

Nice Austrian café

Nice Austrian café

Praça do Commercio

Praça do Commercio

Dom Jose I statue

Dom Jose I statue

We then tried to figure out how to get to Belem by public transport when Iestyn had a genius idea of just driving there, which proved super useful not only because it was only some 7 km from where we were, but also because we later found out that our campsite was very close to Belem as well.

Chillin'

Chillin’

Lisbon Tram and street

Lisbon Tram and street

In Belem, we visited the most beautiful place of them all, the ultimate Manueline beauty to rule them, the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. Do I even need to mention it’s on the list?

Standing at the entrance to Lisbon harbour, the Monastery of the Hieronymites – construction of which began in 1502 – exemplifies Portuguese art at its best. The nearby Tower of Belém, built to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s expedition, is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world.

Monastery of the Hieronymites entrance

Monastery of the Hieronymites entrance

Pillar Detail

Pillar Detail

A very relaxed Gina

A very relaxed Gina

Cloisters of Jerónimos Monastery

Cloisters of Jerónimos Monastery

As our book says:

The mosteiro is the stuff of pure fantasy – a fusion of Diogo de Boitaca’s creative vision and the spice and pepper dosh of Manuel I, who commissioned it to trumpet Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India in 1498. There is nothing like the moment you walk into the honey-stoned Manueline cloisters, dripping with organic detail in their delicately scalloped arches, twisting auger-shell turrets and columns intertwined with leaves, vines and knots.

Indeed, nothing like it. Vasco da Gama’s tomb is in the church as well.

"..honey-stoned Manueline cloisters"

“..honey-stoned Manueline cloisters”

Gina midd dance

Gina midd dance

From the monastery we walked over to the Tower of Belem, already mighty tired for the day.

Tower of Belem

Tower of Belem


09
Sep 13

Sintra

Monday
Getting closer to Lisbon already, we crossed the famous faux-Golden Gate bridge and got a glimpse of the big city on our way to Sintra, whose “cultural landscape” is on the UNESCO list, oh god, how many more still to come?

In the 19th century Sintra became the first centre of European Romantic architecture. Ferdinand II turned a ruined monastery into a castle where this new sensitivity was displayed in the use of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance elements and in the creation of a park blending local and exotic species of trees. Other fine dwellings, built along the same lines in the surrounding serra , created a unique combination of parks and gardens which influenced the development of landscape architecture throughout Europe.

There are many sights to see in Sintra and surroundings, so we had to make a careful selection. After some navig kerfuffle around town, we oriented ourselves and went first to see the famous Palacio Nacional de Sintra with two iconic cone chimneys on top.

Palacio Nacional de Sintra

Palacio Nacional de Sintra

Swan Hall - Sala Grande

Swan Hall – Sala Grande

Gold Room

Gold Chamber

The building itself was beautiful with exquisite interiors and tiling, but it could not be more touristy, so the crowds spoilt it for us a bit.
Our fav piece of art was the painting of Jesus in naughty nightie, but we later learned that it was actually John Baptist donning that sexy little piece.

John Baptist donning a sexy piece

John Baptist donning a sexy piece

Afterwards we decided to visit the Quinta da Regaleira, a neo-Manueline extravaganza complete with huge gardens with tunnels, caves, secret doors, waterfalls, famous inverted tower, gods, goddesses, gargoyles and beasts… so much beauty! Nearly not as many people either, it made the highlight of the day.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira

Gina relaxing on her throne

Gina relaxing on her throne

The Regaleira Chapel

The Regaleira Chapel

Gina navigating a cave

Gina navigating a cave

Initiation Well

Initiation Well

Initiation Well

Initiation Well

Gina and Castle of the Moors on the hilltop

Gina and Castle of the Moors on the hilltop

Late lunch of pizza in a nearby outdoor snack bar, we had enough for the day, and decided to give a miss to the other places around Sintra and just head for the coast.

Pizza time!

Pizza time!

Iestyn selected Praia Grande due to some more dino fossils nearby, but there was not camping around, so we drove down to Guincho instead, the famous windy beach, mecca of kitesurfers and windsurfers. We found a tiny wind-shielded cove in the rocks and watched the surfers fight those mighty waves.